Wednesday, May 29, 2013

Summer Essential - Men's Shorts - Introduction


The prospect of celebrating summer might have you toying with the idea of spending many days in a pair of shorts (especially if you plan on being poolside the whole time). But going pants less is a deceptively tricky move—wrought with pitfalls and misconceptions.

Kilts, togas and tunics laid the path for the first knee breeches, which upper-crust Europeans were spotted in as far back as the late 14th century. The modern short silhouette didn’t come along until half a millennium later, when the British military was looking for a way for its soldiers to keep cool in warm places like… Bermuda. The army’s smart-looking knee-length trousers quickly caught on among civilians, spawning 100 years of sock dilemmas.

More often than not, they’re considered a necessary evil. Tom Ford famously said that a man should never wear them.  That’s why shorts are probably one of the hardest items to put a decent outfit together with and this is even more obvious when you see other people “trying” to rock them. With jeans there are so many shapes, cuts and washes and you know where you stand with them. You can wear anything on the top half (formal or casual) and still easily pull it off. Shorts however are slightly different. Many men do not know how to wear shorts correctly, and do not know what items will look good with them.






First of all, as always, fit is everything. You need to make sure that they end one or two inches above your knee cap. The shorts should also be of an athletic fit. By this I mean slim but not skinny; you want enough room to sit down comfortably, especially when you consider what happens to your thighs naturally when you do. Making sure that the shorts follow the shape of your quads when trying them on is a foolproof method of getting this right.

Secondly, think about quality. Shorts, like any timeless item, are a piece that you are investing in because they won’t go out of fashion any time soon. All the important features that you’ll be looking for such as the waistband construction, pockets and buttons all get better the more you spend on them. When considering the waistband, make sure it is the same style your chinos or suit trousers have. The time of elasticated shorts are over I’m afraid, so buy some shorts that remind everyone that you are, in fact, a man. So I’m talking about losing big camo pockets on the side and stupid pull strings that don’t do anything. Invest in a pair that looks like you’ve cut off the bottom of your chinos. 

If these are going to be your first pair of shorts (or you are upgrading your old collection) I would recommend buying a pair in a neutral color. The perfect pair for any situation would be in medium grey because it compliments every other color imaginable. However, feel free to invest in a navy, camel or black pair as well.

Once you’ve got your neutrals down, start to get a bit more adventurous. Why not try some block coloring? Purchase a pair of red, yellow or green shorts and then anchor them by keeping everything else in neutral tones.

You can also try some blue vertical stripes, a red gingham check or maybe even some madras shorts? Just remember to keep your top half solid and you can’t go wrong. Or if you do want to pattern mix then make sure that the width/size of the patterns – say stripes and checks – aren’t too similar to one another and you’ll be fine.












In the summer you can wear the shorts everywhere. Your shorts will look great with a simple tee or polo and equally as good with a shirt, tie and jacket because you’ve nailed the fit already.

If you want to wear shorts to the office, make sure that you keep everything formal to compensate. Like I said, good quality and tailored shirts and suit jackets will go a long way but don’t forget your footwear either. I would recommend a proper shoe – wingtip, cap toe or double monk strap and never brand new. Go with brown rather than black and skip the socks (at least those that show). Belts are fine but not essential in my opinion. This, combined with a confidence on wearing the shorts, is all you need to pull of shorts at the office.




Just at the end take a look at this example look-book of my favorites short’s from this season:

BILLIONAIRE BOYS CLUB

DIESEL

DSQUARED2

DOLCE & GABBANA

G-STAR

HTC

JOHN GALLIANO

MARC BY MARC JACOBS

NEIL BARRETT

WHITE MOUNTAINEERING

PRPS

ADIDAS ORIGINALS BY O.C.


Thursday, May 16, 2013

Back in Style: Denim Jacket - 7 ways to wear a jean jacket


Since the days of the Gold Rush, denim has been a foundational part of the American man's wardrobe. The fabric of our lives, as it were. And though we don't see that ending anytime soon, this spring, we should re-examine the hardworking material's place — namely, above the waist. Yes, we're talking about the classic jean jacket, a staple from the days of the Wild West right on through to the '90s grunge movement. It's still with us today, and its importance hasn't wavered — especially as spring approaches and you need something lightweight, yet sturdy, to layer on and off as things warm up. 




Denim jackets, in my opinion, are one of Essentials this season - that is to say, one of the items we believe every man should own. Why? Because they are durable, rugged, have a sense of adventure about them, and, above all, have never looked more stylish. The denim jacket was born in the early 20th century, having derived from the jeans and denim overalls worn by American miners and labourers. Sometimes called ranch jackets because they were frequently worn by cowboys (as countless Western movies attest), denim jackets would go on to become embedded in popular culture. Biker gangs such as Hell's Angels (who embroidered and customised theirs, sometimes cutting off the sleeves), punks, hippies, rockers, hip-hop stars and workwear aficionados have all staked a claim on the denim jacket over the past half century. Now that it has reached classic status, interpreted as it is by contemporary designers using high-quality fabrics and construction along with sleek cuts, the denim jacket integrates seamlessly into any man's wardrobe.




Before we start, as this is going to be more of a guide to getting the very most out of your denim jacket during spring/summer, below is a collection of men’s denim jackets currently available on the market. Pick your favorite and keep it in mind as we then create a variety of looks that will prove just how versatile this piece of outerwear really is:

DRKSHDW BY RICK OWENS

+ PEOPLE

DIESEL

DOLCE & GABBANA

ARMANI JEANS

DANIELE ALESSANDRINI JEANS

DSQUARED2

EVISU

MIHARAYASUHIRO

GAETANO NAVARRA

SCOTCH & SODA


Predominantly a casual piece, the denim jacket brings a more dressed down approach to an outfit; although it can certainly be included under the obscure umbrella of smart-casual if done right. The ruggedness of the piece instantly brings about an air of masculinity and its versatility is practically unrivalled, making it relatively easy to incorporate into your wardrobe whatever your particular taste may be:


Pulling off a denim jacket ultimately comes down to finding one that fits. When deciding on a cut, consider the jacket’s construction, and figure out what you’ll be wearing the jacket with and ultimately what kind of look you’re looking to construct. Punk? Go slim and distressed. Country? Get one with a little more room for pairing with a classic flannel shirt. And remember to consider your needs just as you consider the fit; the denim jacket is all about practicality.











Tips for wearing a denim jacket are simple:
  • Never ‘double up’ on denim. If you’re wearing a denim jacket, that means no denim jeans, and definitely no denim shirts. If you’re not sure go with khaki or corduroy pants.
  • If you must mix denims, mix up the washes. Extremely dark wash jeans and a faded shearling-lined jacket is a great example.
  • Never wear your jacket with shorts. No exceptions.
  • Try pairing your jacket with a stiff pair of khakis and a dress shirt for a casual Friday look, or ragged cords and a t-shirt for a grunge-inspired casual outfit.
  • To preserve the wash, treat the jacket as you would if it were a pair of jeans. Wash infrequently, and expect some shrinkage with hot-water washes.
  • Don’t wear the jacket too often, unless you want to be known as ‘that denim jacket guy’, which is a terrible thing to be known as.


Here are 7 different ways to wear a denim jacket:

1: OUT FOR DINNER:

Work this double denim look by sporting a slim selvedge shirt, under the dark denim jacket and layer under the linen blazer to give that sophisti-casual cool look.



2: THE WEEKENDER:

A basic white slim fit t-shirt is a must-have when it comes to a layered denim look. Top with a military jacket  over the dark denim jacket to give an urban edge to a military feel.


3: SATURDAY SHOPPING:

The dark denim jacket at times can be the focus of your layered look, combine with a grey zip hoodie and a must to have this Spring stripes t-shirt to give that just popped out look.



4: MEN AT WORK:

Put the denim jacket to work with a slim shirt in bold stripe. Team with a jacket  and finish with a silk tie in papaya stripe.


5: CITY SLICKER:

Use the dark denim jacket as a waistcoat under your black suit blazer. Opt for the spread-collar dress shirt and finish with a black skinny knit tie giving your boardroom style the ultimate street cred.


6: RAINY DAZE:

Layer it up with this four layer look as keeping warm & dry is paramount to work this laid-back style. The Slim broken-in tee now is your base layer, and then the work-wear inspired homespun knitted Henley. The beloved dark denim jacket works as a shirt under a colorful parka. Loving the plaid and denim mix.



7: QUILT IT UP:

This time our dark denim jacket is the filling between this polar quilt waistcoat/zip-in liner and nautical tee combo. A great look if you’re looking to appear bigger on the chest area!