FALL 2013 MENSWEAR - Miharayasuhiro

A member of the new guard of Japanese designers currently carving their niche outside Nippon, Mihara Yasuhiro brings a fresh vision to the menswear circuit every season. AW13 explored the slick style and devil may care attitude of Chinpara (which means “punk” in Japan), while inspirations prior have ranged from 1950’s biker gangs to youth culture and the navy. It would appear Mihara was logging onto the Rotten/Vicious connotations of the word when he referred to "the non-conformist attitudes of the seventies" in the notes that accompanied his presentation. But look up "punk" and you'll find that the word used to mean "gangster," and that rang much truer with the story Mihara was telling on his catwalk. Don't think Black Flag, think Black Rain, a 1989 movie by Ridley Scott that starred Michael Douglas as a cop facing down Yakuza, the local mafia, in Tokyo. They were just the kind of hard-faced, slicked-back, sharp-dressed young men Mihara offered up as models tonight. "Violent, but with their own culture," he explained postshow. Like a gang, in other words, or maybe even a secret society.

The skull-and-crossbones embroidery was typical of the Sukajan jackets worn by Japanese thugs. The tone-on-tone print on a jacket could have been yakuza tattoos. Reptile prints and weaves also suggested the snakes that are stalwarts of gang tattoos. When Mihara gilded a snakeskin suit, it was just the sort of outfit you'd imagine an arrogant young hood donning to draw attention to himself, though anyone who stared too long would get a good kicking from the wearer's solid metal-toed shoes.

In this context, there was a bizarre delicacy in the traditional embroidery techniques used to weave real gold through a python-patterned suit and matching puffer vest. But the dark inspiration weighed heavy on the collection. The palette was somber, mostly black and charcoal, bar some flash-the-cash prints. The silhouettes tended toward the lean formality that seems to be the favorite of gangsters everywhere. Mihara is such an expert technician that his hybrid of biker and puffa jackets could be a must-have piece of outerwear come Fall 2013. Though disparate in theme, Yasuhiro’s collections are unmistakeable in the urban earthiness that ties each one together.

Diesel Black Gold Fall 2013 Menswear Collection

Diesel's latest collection for Black Gold envisaged a psychedelic rock band on a worlds tour—plural, as in our world, the next, and the next. As The Cosmic Tour—Diesel's name for the collection—tripped through the universe, it did so in slithery, rock-god style. This collection was a natty, suited-up one, spit-shine polished right down to its patent-leather penny loafers, but the breath of other planets came through via satiny fabrics a man from Mars would love. Hairy furs and geometric prints, extrapolated from cathedral-meets-concert-hall graphics, tricked out the lot. Below you will find my favorite pieces and fashion stylizations from the Fall 2013 Diesel Black Gold collection.

Men’s fashion trends for fall 2013

Men's Fashion Week highlighted a few important trends for men's fashion for fall 2013. Make sure you sport these hot new directions if you want to keep up with the menswear fall 2013 trends and look stylish this year. From big ready-to-wear collections to luxury designs, men's trends for upcoming fall are shaping up to help you be elegant or cool, if you make sure to update your wardrobe accordingly.

1.Grey on grey

This season the safest color in your wardrobe is getting risky with multiple designers showing grey worn from head-to-toe. Charcoal suits were paired with contrasting hues and patterns at Viktor & Rolf and Bottega Veneta, not to mention the slate baseball jackets thrown over gunmetal trousers at Neil Barrett. Whether in the workplace or on the weekend, this is one of next year’s easiest trends to master.

2.Burgundy 

Burgundy seems to be one of the favored colors for the fall and is a nice change of pace from your typical black and white color scales. Dark red was the color that dominated the catwalks from Europe. Again, head-to-toe looks , were popular. My favorite trend is that paired with another complementary color. I especially liked Prada’s pairing of a claret jacket with teal trousers and the velvet waist coasts with bright red silk.

3.Bomber/baseball jackets

After showing up at a few shows last year, the varsity-style bomber jacket was seen on almost every catwalk this season, given a distinctly European twist with plush fabrics and a slim cut. High-school inspired outfits might be one of the most lasting menswear Fall 2013 trends. Varsity jackets have been remade in different ways for the modern stylish man. With extra zippers in the Kenzo men's collection, a netter sleeve designed by 3.1 Phillip Lim and a new slim silhouette from Julien David, varsity jackets offer a stylish and much less sporty look.

4.New Camouflage

While it never went away for some people, camouflage is back on the runway on t-shirts, jackets and even suits and might end being one of the most important men's trends for the fall. This is not the same camo that you had purchased from Gap or Banana Republic a few years back. Designers are looking to incorporate this transcendent print in a multitude of ways with pants being the more traditional route to something a little more outlandish, like the jackets seen below. Present in collections by Comme des Garcons Homme Plus, Band of Outsiders and Dries Van Noten, camouflage is a perfect companion to the more elegant navy.

5.Biker leather jacket

The motorcycle jacket is back and some of the biggest names at Fashion Week reinvented it for men or presented it in different and exciting contexts. Paul Smith, Kenzo and Balmain took the biggest liberties with men's motorcycle jackets, adding zippers and changing some key aspects while keeping the coolness intact. With an updated look, the jacket is one of the menswear Fall 2013 trends that keeps you cool even without riding a Harley.

6.Turtlenecks/Roll necks

If you’ve recently been benefitting from the extra blizzard-busting neck insulation a rollneck brings, you’ll be pleased to hear that the item isn’t going anywhere for fall and winter 2013. This item is the essential piece of knitwear for the season. Worn under suits or even under other sweaters, the item is the essential piece of knitwear for the season. Make like McQ (and Steve McQueen) and layer up under a tailored winter coat for the ultimate cold-snap solution.

7.The blues

While claret was the color of the season, a whole host of bright blues hit the catwalks too, with periwinkle at Gucci, electric Costume National and baby blue at Nicole Farhi to name a few. Whether you’re planning on investing in a casual suit or a new overcoat for the season, ditch the same old navy for something a bit brighter.

8.Cape Jacket

The most unexpected trend for this fall is the cape jacket. Perhaps the fashion world just can’t wait for Man of Steel, but capes were everywhere. It’s a bold look – just be sure not to pair it with any red underpants.