“Fashion is not necessarily about labels. It’s not about brands. It’s about something else that comes from within you.” - Ralph Lauren
Friday, March 8, 2013
Thursday, March 7, 2013
Men's Color Trends for S/S 2013
It's still winter, but Menswear runways are busy showing collections for Spring/Summer season.
It looks like designers have really gravitated towards
brighter tones, introducing a much forgotten RED.
Also, since men are tending to be shy wearing brights, of
course, the neutrals have been introduced in the form of sanded grays, greens
and beiges.
Mustard and Sapphire became the brightest leaders in this group, while neutrals like Rust, Indigo and Olive (standard mens' shades) dominated the catwalks around the globe.
Tuesday, March 5, 2013
The Resurgence of the Denim Shirt
Denim shirts are back in style.
If you don’t have one in your closet yet, it’s a worthy
investment. Other types of casual shirts are still quite similar in fabric and
general aesthetics, but a denim shirt will bring something different to your
wardrobe. It will add some variety.
Denim shirts still have the stigma of being primarily
worn by people’s dads, but a stylish man can wear items in ways that break
their stigma. It’s not the shirts itself that give people the dad-look,
it’s the way some people wear them. To prevent you from looking like your old
man, you need to understand how to wear a denim shirt fashionably.
For guys, fashion changes at a plate-tectonics pace. So
going from a pair of jeans to jeans, a jean jacket and a denim shirt — all in
one wearing — can look drastic, in the same way that Brad Pitt's backwoods
beard seems a bit much, even in the midst of a facial-hair frenzy.
Denim is a huge, huge way of expressing yourself right
now. The trick is you don't want to look like you're wearing the same denim on
top as on the bottom. Instead pair a darker and lighter wash, wear a white
T-shirt with dark blue jeans, black motorcycle boots and a distressed (lighter
blue) old denim jacket.
If you're going to double up on denim, it's safest to
keep the color of your top half lighter than the bottom. A darker shirt on
lighter jeans doesn't work. It has something to do with the visual center of
gravity.
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| CLASS ROBERTO CAVALLI |
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| CYCLE |
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| JOHN GALLIANO |
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| D & G |
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| DENIM & SUPPLY RALPH LAUREN |
Here are a few stylish ways to wear a denim shirt that
are quite easy to pull off.
Look 1: Denim Shirt with Chinos
The easiest way to make a denim shirt work is to wear a
pair of chino pants with them. Most people only wear denim on their lower half,
so this is a great way to turn that look upside down. Seriously, this is a hard
look to screw up. Chinos in light shades of brown work especially well with
denim shirts, just look at the images above. Also, the open denim shirt look in
the middle is awesome for summer/spring.
Look 2: Denim Shirt with Jeans
Wearing a denim shirt with jeans has become quite trendy
lately. The double-denim look used to be the fashion faux pas that created the
dad-look mentioned earlier. Now, fashion-forward people have made it work. The
trick with the double denim look is to make sure there is a contrast between
the top and bottom piece. The only way this look works is when one piece is
dark denim and the other is light.
Look 3: Denim Shirt with Cardigan
You can still rock your denim shirt in the colder months
by adding a cardigan. This will keep you warm, and with the right cardigan, it
can look amazing. The denim shirt is enough of a statement piece, so just wear
it under a neutral cardigan, and you’ll have an awesome look on your hands.
Thick knit cardigans look especially manly with a denim shirt.
These are not the only ways to pull off a denim shirt,
but they are the easiest. If you’re new to wearing denim shirts, just try these
3 looks first, and then work yourself up to wearing them with a tie or blazer.
Once you’re comfortable with wearing denim shirts, you could even try wearing
them with a suit. But that’s a pretty advanced look, and I wouldn’t recommend
it to fashion newbies. Remember, just stick to the basics, and you’ll do fine.
Monday, March 4, 2013
Dress Shirts for Men - Formal Doesn't Have to Mean Boring
A proper dress shirt is a button-up shirt with a collar,
long sleeves, and wrist cuffs. It is usually made from a cotton fabric woven
and dyed into various, non-obtrusive patterns and colors. By altering these
characteristics, a dress shirt can either send the message its wearer is ready
for sport or ready to meet the president.
A man’s dress shirt can elegantly frame his face during a
presentation and later absorb his perspiration during a tough round of
questioning. It can play a supporting role by enhancing his sport jacket or it
can stand alone and be the centerpiece of his outfit. The dress shirt ranges in
price from the $9.99 Wal-Mart polyester special to over $600 for a name brand
custom shirt.
A well fitted dress shirt should first and foremost be
comfortable; this is different for every man. Larger men are usually complimented
by a looser fit while petite and thin men are complimented by a more form cut.
In general, though, a shirt should:
- Allow two fingers in the collar when buttoned.
- Be tight enough around the wrist so that the cuffs must
be unbuttoned to slip them off.
- Have long enough sleeves so that you can raise your arms
like wings and not pull the cuffs down the forearm; they should be short enough
so that you don’t have more than 1 inch of fabric bunching near the cuff when
your arms hang.
- Shoulder points that extend to the end of the shoulder
and no farther.
- Have room in the chest and waist to pinch out 1-3 inches
of fabric (depending on fit desired).
When you are looking at dress shirts for men, all shirts
will fall into one of three categories: Bespoke, Made-to-Measure, or
Off-the-Rack.
- Bespoke Shirts are completely custom designed for you
based on a pattern drawn to fit your exact body size and preferences. Once your pattern is on file, you can order
new shirts any time you want simply by flipping through fabric books. You have total control and virtually anything
you can sketch or describe can be made.
- Made-to-Measure Shirts are modified based on a set of
existing patterns to adjust for your own measurements and limited
preferences. If you have a fairly standard
body type with ordinary proportions, there isn’t an enormous difference between
made-to-measure shirts and bespoke shirts.
It may or may not be worth the additional money for you to pay for
bespoke. Your pattern adjustments can be
kept on file so you can reorder when you find a new fabric you love without
needing to get re-fitted.
- Off-the-Rack Shirts are based on pre-established sizes
and limited shirting fabrics, often by neck size / sleeve size for men. For example, a 16.5/33-34 would be a 16.5″ neck
with a 33″ to 34″ arm.
Once you’ve chosen between bespoke, made-to-measure, and
off-the-rack, you need to pick a fit.
The fit you select will depend on your body type and your personal
preference.
- Slim Fit shirts are tailored in the chest, waist, and
arms for a closer, sleeker look. It has
nothing to do with being “slim” or “fat”.
If you like your clothes high, tight, and tailored, you probably prefer
a slim fit.
- Extra Slim Fit or Super Slim Fit shirts are a more extreme
version of the slim fit.
- Regular Fit shirts are typically close to a traditional
shirting fit with slightly tapered sides.
- Traditional Fit shirts are cut more like a box.
The purpose of a shirt collar is to properly balance and
frame a man’s face. It’s the most visible part of a shirt when wearing a jacket
and because of it’s proximity to the face, plays a very large role in
determining the formality and use of the shirt. For this article we will only
talk about turndown collars and its two major variants, the point and spread.
- Point Collars – The most common collar style seen in the
US is the point collar; found on 95% of off-the-rack dress shirts, it is cut so
that the collar points are reasonably close together with the collar angle being
at or less than 60 degrees. The advantage of this collar style is that longer,
more closely set points tend to draw the eye down which elongates the face.
Unfortunately, most off-the-rack point collars seek the middle ground and do
not have a small enough angle or long enough points to reap the full rewards of
this effect.
- Spread Collars – The second style is the spread or
“cutaway” collar. These collars have the points “cut away” thus the name,
revealing more of the upper shirt area; typically we see these collars with
angles greater than 90 degrees. Spread collars are excellent for the gentleman
with a medium to long shaped face, as they do the opposite of the point and
spread out a man’s features.
In any given day we only speak with a small percentage of
the people we see; the shirt you wear, in the absence of a jacket, is the most
powerful signal you are using to non-verbally communicate with those around
you. Your shirt, whether you like it or not, is speaking for you; make sure
it’s saying what you intend.
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| DRIES VAN NOTEN |
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| DSQUARED2 |
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| ALEXANDER MCQUEEN |
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| COMME des GARÇONS HOMME PLUS |
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| DSQUARED2 |
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| COMME des GARÇONS HOMME PLUS |
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| DOLCE & GABBANA |
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| JOHN GALLIANO |
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| NEIL BARRETT |
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| VIKTOR & ROLF |
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